Visu­al Arts

The Guardian of Mem­o­ry: Aldo Izzo and the Ancient Jew­ish Ceme­tery of Venice

Mar­jorie Agosín; Ali­son Rid­ley, trans; Samuel Shats, photography

  • Review
By – October 30, 2023

Falling in love — whether with a per­son or a city — is an expe­ri­ence that is almost impos­si­ble to con­vey to oth­ers. Yet that is pre­cise­ly what the author of this slim text attempts to do. Writ­ten in poet­ry and prose, The Guardian of Mem­o­ry is a flu­id biog­ra­phy” of both Venice and Aldo Izzo, the man whom she believes embod­ies the city’s his­to­ry. On a deep­er lev­el, it is also a med­i­ta­tion on time, mem­o­ry, and the com­plex his­to­ry of the Jews, espe­cial­ly in Italy. 

Mar­jorie Agosin is a poet and pro­fes­sor who was named writer-in-res­i­dence in Beit Venezia in 2019. Back in the US dur­ing the pan­dem­ic, she reflect­ed on her feel­ings for Venice and Izzo, with whom she con­tin­ued to cor­re­spond by email. Dur­ing a post-Covid vis­it to the city, her love only deep­ened and expanded. 

Agosin suc­ceeds in cap­tur­ing the inef­fa­ble plea­sures of Venice as well as the charm and grav­i­tas of Izzo. One may wish she had pro­vid­ed a bit more his­tor­i­cal infor­ma­tion about her main char­ac­ter, whose aging vis­age — beau­ti­ful­ly pho­tographed in black and white by Samuel Shats — con­veys an immense dignity. 

Aldo Izzo is a unique fig­ure, already com­mem­o­rat­ed by Ruth Ellen Gru­ber in the doc­u­men­tary Aldo’s Stones. He was born in Venice in 1930 to a Jew­ish moth­er and non-Jew­ish father. Mussolini’s fas­cism forced his fam­i­ly to take refuge in Den­mark dur­ing the ear­ly years of the war. They then had no choice but to return and face Italy’s racial laws. He and his broth­er hid in his high school teacher’s base­ment for more than a year. After the war, he left Italy for thir­ty-sev­en years, tour­ing the world as a ship cap­tain. Upon his retire­ment, he and his wife moved to the Lido, where he was raised, and where his sec­ond career began.

Although Izzo calls him­self a Jew with­out a coun­try,” he has in fact come to embody Venice and its his­to­ry. For over thir­ty years, he has presided over Venice’s ancient ceme­tery in the Lido, whose first stones were laid in 1386. He took it upon him­self to assume this role, repair­ing and restor­ing the ceme­tery, lead­ing vis­i­tors through its head­stones, and reflect­ing on the sto­ries of its per­se­cut­ed peo­ple. In the process, he has become what Agosin calls the guardian of mem­o­ry,” as well as her key to under­stand­ing Venice.”

As is the case for so many love affairs, Agosin’s long-dis­tance rela­tion­ship with the objects of her affec­tion only increased her pas­sion. The result is this love­ly book — a trib­ute to her skills and the many charms of Jew­ish Venice. 

Eleanor Foa is an author, jour­nal­ist, and cor­po­rate writer. Her mem­oir MIXED MES­SAGES: Reflec­tions on an Ital­ian Jew­ish Fam­i­ly and Exile comes out in Novem­ber 2019. Her work appears in nation­al news­pa­pers, mag­a­zines and web­sites. She is the author of Whith­er Thou Goest and In Good Com­pa­ny, Pres­i­dent of Eleanor Foa Asso­ciates (eleanor​foa​.com), past pres­i­dent of the Amer­i­can Soci­ety of Jour­nal­ists and Authors, and received lit­er­ary res­i­den­cies at Yad­do and the Vir­ginia Cen­ter for the Cre­ative Arts.

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