Non­fic­tion

Good­bye, Tahrir Square: Com­ing of Age as a Jew of the Nile

  • Review
By – May 5, 2025

Elio Zarmati was born in 1945 in Cairo and grew up amid the rev­o­lu­tion­ary changes that took place in Egypt with the over­throw of King Farouk in 1952 and the Suez Cri­sis of 1956

In his ear­ly child­hood, Zarmati enjoyed a life of rel­a­tive priv­i­lege. His mother’s fam­i­ly were Cairoites of long stand­ing, steeped in the unique blend of Jew­ish and Ara­bic cul­ture. His moth­er was friends with an array of diplo­mats, gov­ern­ment min­is­ters, and oth­er social­ly ele­vat­ed types. She spent her days in cafes and ele­gant restau­rants. Zarmati’s father’s fam­i­ly was well off but of a low­er social stand­ing; he ran a hab­er­dash­ery fre­quent­ed by British offi­cers and Egypt­ian gen­tle­men. The par­ents’ social and intel­lec­tu­al dif­fer­ences led to their sep­a­ra­tion and divorce, and young Zarmati and his father moved in with Zarmati’s tra­di­tion­al Nona (grand­moth­er), who kept the flame of Judaism alive.

As Zarmati approached ado­les­cence, his world began to change. The monar­chy was over­thrown, and the mil­i­tary, even­tu­al­ly dom­i­nat­ed by Gamal Abdel Nass­er, ascend­ed to pow­er. The grow­ing Islamiza­tion of life put pres­sure on the non-Islam­ic res­i­dents in this poly­glot, mul­ti­cul­tur­al milieu. The Suez Cri­sis led to an increase in explic­it anti-Zion­ist and anti-Jew­ish rhetoric as well as tighter restric­tions on Jew­ish res­i­dents. Many decid­ed to flee to Europe or Israel. While most of Zarmati’s father’s fam­i­ly left soon after Suez, Zarmati and his father, for rea­sons not made clear, had dif­fi­cul­ty in obtain­ing their exit visas. Thus Zarmati was stuck in a kind of lim­bo, prepar­ing for a bar mitz­vah he didn’t real­ly care about, torn between his par­ents, and expe­ri­enc­ing the gen­er­al angst of becom­ing a teenag­er in the 1950s.

Zarmati was some­what of a prodi­gy in his inter­est in French cul­ture and lit­er­a­ture (he read vora­cious­ly in his late-grandfather’s library), but he also had some learn­ing dif­fi­cul­ties, and his assertive per­son­al­i­ty often ran afoul of school author­i­ties who did not brook any back­talk. For a good part of his life, he felt adrift — split between the dif­fer­ent worlds of his par­ents; Jew­ish but not reli­gious­ly inclined; a sec­ond-class cit­i­zen in a Mus­lim coun­try; more com­fort­able in French than Ara­bic. Belat­ed­ly, forced to study Ara­bic by the new regime in the schools, he came to admire the works of the great Egypt­ian nov­el­ist Naguib Mafouz and began to iden­ti­fy more with his native land just as he was forced to leave.

This book is lov­ing­ly writ­ten and filled with vivid details of Cairo street life. Zarmati recalls with affec­tion the buzz and scent of the souk where his moth­er loved to shop, the decay­ing Jew­ish neigh­bor­hood where his fore­bears lived, and the col­or­ful char­ac­ters who pop­u­lat­ed his life. The swirl of traf­fic and human­i­ty through Tahrir Square, close to Nona’s apart­ment, serve as the cen­tral sym­bols of Zarmati’s lost child­hood. This book is a wor­thy addi­tion to the small array of mem­oirs of Zarmati’s con­tem­po­raries, such as Andre Aciman’s Out of Egypt and Lucette Lagna­do The Man in the Shark­skin Suit, that evoke this lost world with love and affection.

Mar­tin Green is pro­fes­sor emer­i­tus at Fair­leigh Dick­in­son Uni­ver­si­ty, where he taught lit­er­a­ture and media stud­ies. He is work­ing on a book about Amer­i­can pop­u­lar peri­od­i­cals in the 1920s.

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