Cov­er of Sim­ply Julia

I nev­er got to meet my mater­nal grand­moth­er, but I feel a real teth­er to her in my kitchen. Dur­ing Passover, the Jew­ish hol­i­day when foods with any type of leav­en­ing are cus­tom­ar­i­ly avoid­ed, she used to make egg noo­dles” out of just eggs. She would make a stack of incred­i­bly thin omelets, almost like egg crepes, roll the stack up like a huge cig­ar, and then cut them across into rib­bons. When we were in the ear­ly days of Grace’s type 1 dia­betes diag­no­sis a few years ago, eager for com­fort­ing dish­es that were low in car­bo­hy­drates, I imme­di­ate­ly thought about my mom’s sto­ries about how won­der­ful those egg noo­dles were. They’ve since become a favorite in our house. While we both love them in a sim­ple bowl of gold­en chick­en broth, they’re great in so many dif­fer­ent types of broth.

For a pho-inspired broth, you can char some onion, gar­lic, and gin­ger in a broil­er and then sim­mer them with stock and lots of cilantro stems, a whole star anise, and a cin­na­mon stick; then strain all of that after about an hour, and sea­son the broth with fish sauce. For a Mex­i­can-inspired broth, try sim­mer­ing your favorite dried chile pep­pers, gar­lic, and cilantro stems in stock. And on and on. What­ev­er broth you do, you can add some greens at the end of cook­ing and also poach some chick­en breasts or thighs in the broth for added heft, but I par­tic­u­lar­ly love the sim­plic­i­ty of broth and del­i­cate egg noo­dles. If you want to make this ahead, store the broth and egg noo­dles sep­a­rate­ly and then com­bine them just before serv­ing to best pre­serve their texture.

Pho­to cred­it Meli­na Hammer

Gold­en Chick­en Broth with Real Egg Noodles

Serves 4

For the broth

9 cups [2 liters] water

1 large yel­low onion, rough­ly chopped (no need to peel)

1 pound [453 g] chick­en backs, bones, and/​or wings

First, make the broth

1 tea­spoon fresh­ly ground black pepper

kosher salt

For the egg noodles

4 large eggs

12 tea­spoon salt

Cook­ing spray

(my pref­er­ence is olive oil spray, but use what­ev­er you have)

Place the water, onion, chick­en parts, pep­per, and 1 table­spoon salt in a large pot over high heat. Don’t fear the large quan­ti­ty of salt (remem­ber you’re sea­son­ing all of that water).

Bring the mix­ture to a boil, skim off and dis­card any foam that ris­es to the top, and then turn the heat to low. Sim­mer the broth gen­tly so that it just bare­ly bub­bles and cook until the chick­en pieces total­ly fall apart and the broth is incred­i­bly fra­grant, about 2 hours. Ladle the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot (or, if you don’t have anoth­er large pot, ladle it into a bowl, clean the pot you start­ed with, and return the broth to the pot). Dis­card the con­tents of the sieve (every­thing in it will have giv­en all it can by this point, but by all means feel free to pick the chick­en meat and snack on it; it won’t have much fla­vor, but there’s some­thing very sat­is­fy­ing about stand­ing next to a steam­ing pot and doing this).

Sea­son the broth to taste with addi­tion­al salt if need­ed. Keep the broth warm over low heat.

Pho­to cred­it Meli­na Hammer

Then, make the egg noodles

Place the eggs in a large bowl with the 12 tea­spoon salt and whisk very well.

Set a medi­um non­stick skil­let over medi­um-high heat and spray the sur­face with cook­ing spray.

Add enough of the beat­en eggs to just coat the bot­tom of the pan and swirl the pan to coat the sur­face with the egg (pour any excess back into the bowl). Let the thin omelet cook just until it’s cooked through (no need to ip as it’s so thin) and then trans­fer it to a plate. Repeat the process until you’ve used up all of the beat­en eggs, stack­ing the omelets as you go.

Pho­to cred­it Meli­na Hammer

Reg­u­late the heat and spray the skil­let with cook­ing spray as need­ed in between omelets (you might not need to spray between each one depend­ing on the non­stick­ness of your skil­let). You will like­ly end up with 4 or 5 thin omelets (but it real­ly depends on the size of your pan).

Roll your stack of omelets togeth­er and then cut them cross­wise into thin ribbons.


Divide the noo­dles among 4 large bowls and ladle the broth over them. Serve immediately.

From the book SIM­PLY JULIA by Julia Tur­shen. Copy­right © 2021 by Julia Tur­shen. Pub­lished by Harp­er Wave, an imprint of Harper­Collins Pub­lish­ers. Reprint­ed by permission.

Julia Tur­shen is the best­selling author of Now & Again (Ama­zon’s Best Cook­book of 2018, an NPR Great Read’), Feed the Resis­tance (Eater’s Best Cook­book of 2017), and Small Vic­to­ries (named one of the Best Cook­books of 2016 by the New York Times and NPR). She also hosts the IACP-nom­i­nat­ed pod­cast Keep Calm and Cook On’. She has coau­thored numer­ous cook­books and has writ­ten for The New York TimesThe Wash­ing­ton PostThe Wall Street Jour­nalVogueBon Appétit, Food & Wine, and more. Epi­cu­ri­ous has called her one of the 100 Great­est Home Cooks of All Time and The New York Times has described her at the fore­front of the new gen­er­a­tion of authen­tic, approach­able authors.” She sits on the Kitchen Cab­i­net Advi­so­ry Board for the Smith­so­ni­an’s Nation­al Muse­um of Amer­i­can His­to­ry and is the founder of Equi­ty At The Table, an inclu­sive dig­i­tal direc­to­ry of women and non-bina­ry indi­vid­u­als in food. She lives in the Hud­son Val­ley with her wife and their dogs.