In her debut cookbook, Twisted, Mandy Silverman takes a Willy Wonka – esque approach to challah, babka, and other twisty breads. Think Lemon Miso Chicken Dumpling Challah and Red Wine-Braised Leek Challah. Silverman, also known as Mandylicious, stretches the bounds of what challah can be with more than six hundred flavor combinations, making the traditional bread a canvas for her imaginative palate.
Challah, one can argue, is the epitome of Jewish food. In modern television and media, challah is often used as a shorthand for Jewish identity. This makes sense given that challah is the centerpiece of every table at most Jewish holiday meals (with the exception of Pesach and Yom Kippur). As Silverman writes in her opening, “Challah isn’t just bread. It’s memory, culture, history, tradition. It’s the centerpiece of a table full of family, stories, and people we love.”
Nevertheless, as Silverman also notes, “Eating challah is easy. Baking challah? Not so much.” With this in mind, she devotes the opening forty-one pages to the fundamentals of challah baking before introducing her more adventurous creations. In this primer, Silverman teaches skills that can otherwise take years to develop, methodically explaining each tool, ingredient, and baking method so that readers understand not only what to do, but why the dough behaves as it does. If questions remain, a QR code at the back of the cookbook allows readers to contact Silverman directly.
Silverman is also attuned to the practical needs of home bakers. Quantity variations and vegan adaptations throughout the book make the recipes versatile without requiring readers to recalculate or blindly guess measurements themselves.
Following her primer, Silverman begins by offering eight basic recipes, which also serve as the dough bases for almost all of her creations throughout the book. From there, Silverman takes readers on a rollercoaster of flavors with her signature imaginative creations; allowing challah to become a vehicle for a dazzling variety of flavors. These include Dill Pickle Challah with Dill Crunch, Coconut Curry Challah, Kung Pao Cashew Challah, and Pulled BBQ Brisket Challah.
Silverman also provides ways to repurpose leftover challah, such as in crème brûlée challah bread pudding and challah stuffing. She also includes recipes to complement the bread, like spinach-artichoke dip and caramelized onion dip.
In Twisted’s final section, the author turns to Babka, an Eastern European dessert whose dough is akin to a cousin of challah. Silverman makes a daunting dessert approachable without sacrificing what makes babka so good: a rich, gooey texture that is decadent without being overly sweet.
Though niche in scope, Twisted offers both novice and experienced bakers a comprehensive introduction to challah and babka. Silverman’s clear instructions and imaginative recipes provide an inviting and unconventional approach to a crown jewel of Jewish cuisine.
